Saturday 31 August 2013

KEY RESEARCH - MAGAZINES AND CURRENT MEDIA

TEXTILE FORUM - september issue

9th Valcellina Award
This one-and-only textile art competition for young textile artists in Europe is preparing for its 9th edition to the theme of "Imaginary and Reality". More information will soon follow on the website of the organisation Le Arti Tessili (www.leartitessili.it) and of the event itself (http://www.premiovalcellina.org). The event will take place again in Maniago, Italy, in April/May 2014. 
Deadline: 31 Dec. 2013




________
ARTISTS



Silja Puranen - She embroiders onto found textiles whether its rugs or other patterned pieces. The result is a busy but visually pleasing result.



Jim Arendt - an artist whose work explores the shifting paradigms of labor and place through narrative figure painting, drawing, prints, fabric and sculpture. Influenced by the radical reshaping of the rural and industrial landscapes he grew up in, he investigates how individual lives are affected by transitions in economic structures.


Yoriko Yoneyama - uses cotton thread along with other materials, such as mirrors, to create his sculptures.



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COMPETITIONS AND EXHIBITIONS










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KAARINA KAIKKONEN



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LONDON FASHION WEEK - LIBERTIES WINDOW DISPLAYS
http://www.liberty.co.uk/window-gallery-lfw-aw13/article/fcp-content



Liberty collaborated with make-up and interdisciplinary artist, Isamaya Ffrench, for the September windows. We caught up with Isamaya to find out more about her inspiration, and what it was like working with Liberty.
What was your inspiration for the window displays?

"The inspiration originally came from the concept of a 'fashion monster' – creating unusual textural skins and organic shapes to evoke otherworldly characters."

How does it feel working with Liberty on a range of windows?

"It was amazing working with such an iconic luxury retailer like Liberty. Being an artist, it was refreshing to find that everything about Liberty is authentic. The mannequins were hand-painted, marbled and styled over a two week period, working on-site in the Liberty rooftop studio which made the process even more memorable. The simplicity of the resultant window displays allows you to clearly see the textures created and their colourful interaction with all the beautiful clothes."

Tell us something we don't know about these windows...

"Each mannequin is a result of the day's weather. I was given a formal colour palette to utilise but discovered that such is the unpredictability of marbling on such as scale, that the same set of colours would turn out completely different each time depending on environmental factors like weather and temperature. However, Liberty embraced this as as part of the artform and realised that the different motifs were imbuing distinct personalities into each of the mannequins and in effect, they became like personas rather than decoration."

Maxine Groucutt, Head of Visual Identity at Liberty, also gave us her insight into the window displays.
What was the inspiration or concept behind the windows?

"The window concept began with the international collections showing the plethora of texture – wool, mohair, angora, glossy feathers, curly sheepskin and faux fur. We then added some well-placed googly eyes and everywhere there were fashion monsters! The scheme morphed into something more mature with a twist of London's bizarre eclectic innovation, celebrating what Liberty and London Fashion Week does so well."

How were the displays constructed and materials sourced?

"I met with Isamaya Ffrench who has an incredible portfolio of skin art. Transforming her work onto the mannequins was so intriguing. Isamaya invented the marbling effect by mixing paint in a bath and then dipping and painting each mannequin. The wigs by Charlie Le Mindu were brought in to emphasise the characters and their animal appearance. The styling took a few days and over 21 brands were used in the scheme."

Let us in on a secret about these window displays...

"The Grazia Fash Factor winner's dress was selected by Liberty's Head of Fashion Buying & Merchandising, Stephen Ayres and our Managing Director, Ed Burstell before they knew the theme of the window scheme. When Ed showed me the winning design I couldn't believe how perfectly it worked with the concept."



Friday 30 August 2013

Magazine Notes

Icrease in sales on 'urban renewal ' outfitters etc, but people still wont do these things themselves


TEXTILE NOTES IN NOTEBOOK


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JOURNAL OF MATERIAL CULTURE

page 3
'scholars of material culture and memory have explored the way objects endure through time and encapsulate a 'silent' trajectory of human-object relations, sustaining past in the present. As traces of times gone by, momento, souveniers and family hierloons fix the prescences of the past in everyday domestic materiality and familial social revelations.'

page 4
'objects not only remind the owner/user of past practices and situations but also act as 'portable places' transporting the self back to distant places and times. moving beyond the traditional conceptualisation of commemorative artefacts as 'dormant bearers' of the past that prompt the individual to nostalgically long for or virtually represent what cannot be restored, Turnball asserts that objects function as vital repositories of the past via active performance and enactment of human-object relations that bring the past sensuously, viscerally and emotively alive for rememberes. Having conjoured up landscapes, lest homes, ones heritage and the dead, the object is capable of bridging existing boundaries not only between past and present but also between deathworlds and lifeworlds'

'saunders presents an account of 'trench art' - artillery shells and bullets recycled by soldiers into works of art. Person-object relations with trench art evokes both the horrors of the battlefield and the miraculous and regenerative force or survival and/or the commemoration of loved ones'

page 44
'DeborahLupton argues that objects form n integral part of human social relationships. Once n object is acquired by an individual, it can move from the realm of 'mass-produced commoditity' into the realm of 'personal possession' because it becomes invested with meaning for the owner and therefore de-commodified. Objects are 'endowed with these meanings through the process of linking them with abstract values that are not inherently attatched to them' and, as a result, they become infused with emotion'

'de-commodified, or indeed non-commoditity, objects such as photographs, jewellery, letters and clothing are often identified as important objects imbued with emotion and identity. In the context of death and bereavement, research has investigated how the possessions of the deceased are distributed amongst mourners and how these objects perpetuate an ongoing relationship with the dead.

page45
''social interaction with and through material forms tends to destabilise subject/object boundaries such that material objects cn become extensions of the body and therefore of personhood.' Hallam and Hockey employ this argument to demonstrate how deceased individuals can retain a physical presence amongst the living through objects that were once their belongings'


EMBROIDERY

page 8
many embroiderers learned to sew at the knee of their mother or aunt. its the way that knowledge has been passed from generation to generation for centuries - mny of us learning to make, mend and master from our elders [p.8, Embroidery Magazine]
this passing has all but stopped, and been replaced by online tutorials and books. The individual will make their own choice whether to sew, and then learn it from these sources.


TEXTILES

page 7
"With the explosive growth in the popularity of denim cottom around the globe, the use of recycled cotton is increasingly important as a means of preserving natural resources and reducing landfill wastes," said Stowe Beam, SCS managing director of environmental certification services.

page 19
'Fuad-Luke uses the term 'design activist'; suggesting a person who uses deisgn to change things for the better from an environmental as well as a social point of view.'

'sustainable design has gained increasing attention in the past five years through rapidly emerging environmental problems from climate change to polluted rivefrs. an ever growing population and globalisation have forced thinking towards more sustainable product manufacturing goods in a manner that does not over consume our share of resources to the cost of future generations'

page 20
even though product manufacturing has no doubt a big impact on sustainability, the end user holds a huge responsibility to the overall sustainability of a product. This is a point when sustainable design jumps in. A designer can make several decisions to expand the life cycle of a product by good design choices. It can be claimed that sustainable design and good product design go hand in hand...
We can find textile products where any type of cleaning is not accepted. This type of care label may have been mde in the hope of avoiding responsibility if mixed materials are washed wrongly, but it leads to disposable products.
Materials of different resistance of use and car are combined with the result of short life products. And then we have a completely different issue - fast fashion, products that are not even aimed to last very long. Sometimes the quality can be so poor that they cannot be recycled or reused and don't even have a second use, something which is creating problems for traditionl recycling markets. So arguably quality is one of the key sustainable produt design principles.

Switching away from fast fashion requires a mind change in the values of customers. There has been a decrease in the value. At the beginning of the 20th century, clothes were so valuable that they were often listed in peoples wills and inherited by the next generation. Even in the fifties, holes in socks were darned every night in Finland. Even though it is very rare that people would sew holes in socks today, there are lots of signals that there is a change of thinking.


'Slow Fashion' is to create timeless, long lasting, quality products, that their owner with cherish and is willing to take care of. Here is where emotional design kicks in.

an attempt 'to make an emotional connection with a product is to implement collaborative design practises into the product innovation process. the involvement in the product design progress gives the feeling of owenership. Anja-lisa hirscher in 2013 research this by holding workshops and halfmade products. she was interested to see if it changed emotional attatchment to the clothing if the person was involved in making it. she found out that the majority of people value the clothing they have made themselves more compared to a purely bought one. A commercial example is the PUMA factory, where a customer can customise and order their own shoes.


TRAPPED BY TATRIZ

 page 129
recent decades have transformed the significance of hand embroidery and beadwork (tratriiz) for Bedouin women. Once  valued skill used to convey cultural meaning, especially marital status, through costumes, it has now become a commodity whose benefits are unequally distributed. Marketed by successful projects, it may be a welcome provider of independent funds for women and improved family income. Eqully it can lead to demeaning encounters, as women set aside cultural normas to sell goods made with declining skill.

TEXTILE THE JOURNEY OF CLOTH AND CULTURE - READ MORE OF THIS VERY RELEVANT TEXT.

Thursday 29 August 2013

Performance art notes

 clothes can be interpreted by an audience in very different ways, depending on their culture and the situation where it is presented

THE PERFORMANCE STUDIES READER edited by henry bial

"performance...is a broad spectrum of activities including at the very least the performing arts, rituals, healing, sports, popular entertainments, and performance in everyday life" page 7 richard schechner the broad spectrum approach

"as for the broad spectrum approach - treating performative behaviour not just the performing arts, as a subject for serious scholarly study - this idea is just beginning to make some headway among the academic establishment." page 8 same as above

"as an artform, performance lacks a distinctive medium" (carroll 1986: 78) page 43

"by theorizing embodiment, event, and agency in relation to live (and mediated) performance, Performance studies can potentially offer something of a counterweight to the emphasis in Cultural studies on literature and media, text as an extended metaphor for culture, and enrich the discussion of discourse, representation, the body, and identity." page 43
'
Ray birdwhistell "performance is an inherant constituent of all communication "page 44


"THE LINE BETWEEN ART AND LIFE SHOULD BE KEPT AS FLUID, AND PERHAPS INDISTINCT, AS POSSIBLE" allan kaprow,  perform by jens hoffman and joan jonas



PERFORM - jens hoffman etc

page 11 -
 "its used in a wide variety of fields and areas of the contemporary world, from the realms of ecomomy, business, technology science and medicine to art, popular culture, sports, politics and academia. Athe same time, even though everyone is using it, it seems difficult to settle on a clear and precise definition for the term."

"performance resists classification"

"the execution of an action, the accomplishment of a task or the manner in which something functions and operates"

PAGE 12 
Performance can mean many different things in different areas of life. For example "'performance is used to describe the so-called productivity of an employee" in the business world, or "how well or poorly a piece of antique furniture...fares during an auction". "the more we read and hear about performance, the more confusing it seems to become. suddenly activities as diverse as cooking or joke-telling seem to qualify as performance...What is this all about? Society as performance? The world as a stage?"
A more defined definition of performance is ...
Some argue that audience has to play a role in it, which it does with clothing. Everyone you intereact with during the day, who is more likely to speak to you or avoid you due to your clothing etc

+()%*£*@ EG Some describe performance art that "performance may also be understood mroe generally as any activity that involves the presentation of rehearsed or pre-established sequences of words or actions. Schechner calls this 'restored behaviour' or 'twice-behaved behaviour' (performance studies reader) which .
Putting clothes on in the morning, to reflect a certain decade 
Putting on high heels, knowing you will be uncomfortable to preparing to sacrifice comfort for your appearance

clothiing has closely echoed developments in the government since the 1600s? Much like how 'this painting' showed the freedom of blah in this period. Unlike theatre, campaigns or other art at the time, dressing for the day became a way to subtlely express your beliefs and stance on 
More specifically, like the boom in the 80s, dressing monogamous etc

Public is the most important element.. without people to see, clothes are nothing

PAGE 14
research AUSTIN GOFFMAN "costruction of identity as a performative process"

PAGE 15 - performance art is 'generally executed by an artits or group of artists in front of a live audience at a specific time and at a specific place. in contrast to theatre, performance art does not present the illusion of events, but rather presents actual events as art"
"in contrast to theatres, , it is not based on a predetermined set of dialogues"

PAGE16
'we discover that 'body art' is also, in fact, a broadly inclusive term that cannot be reduced to one particular idea."

PAGE17
"Kaprow's Happenings foreshadowed performance art in various ways, as they brought together a set of attributes unknown in art of that time. They were freely planned, provisional and spontaneous artistic events that directly related to everyday life. In particular, the desire to locate, explore and bridge the gap between art and life was key to Kaprow's artistic and theoretical inquiries."

PAGE 181
Martha Rosler "the adoption of performance is in part a reflection of the broad abandonment, in most of Western culture, of the search for self apart from its formation in social situations... I have wanted to 'policitize' the most invisible elements of everyday life - to suggest that these things are worthy of attention and, most importantly, subject to change"
The breakdown of family could be to blame, forever soul search, no identity



PAGE 42 - paul mccarthey "most importantly, pinnochion costumes that the audience must wear if they want to watch the film inside the box. mccarthey wants us to assum eand share the role of the leading player in his film..why have we been asked to dress up?"

PAGE 62 - gilbert and george "being living sculptures is our life blood, our destiny, our romance,  our disaster, our light and life"

page 78 - nikki s lee

page 110 - adrian piper - wears wet paint clothes, or stinking clothes and goes out in public

page 156 - cremaster cycle

page 162 - carlos amorales - transformation through clothes and makeup into wrestlers

WHAT I WANT TO DO IS SHOW THAT THIS ISNT THAT DISSIMILAR TO REAL LIFE



20th century performance reader

page 120
simone de beauvoir claims 'one is not born, but, rather, becomes a woman'

"gender is in no way a stable identity or locus of agency from which various acts proceed; rather, it is an identity tenuously constituted in time - an identity instituted through a stylized repetition of acts" it is these acts of behaviour, dress, and ritual that women have become accustomed to which is key to this investigation

pge 123
"to be female is, according to that distinction,  a facticity which has no meaning, but to be a woman is the have become a woman, to compel the body to conform to an historical idea of 'woman', to induce the body to become a cultural sign, to materialise oneself in obedience to an historically delimitated possibility, and to do this as a sustained and repeated corporeal project

as a strategy of survival, gender is a performance with clearly punitive consequences. Discrete genders are part of what 'humanises' individuals within contemporary culture; those who fail to do their gender right are regularly punished."

page 131/2
"Gender is what is put on, invariably, under constraint, daily and insessantly, with anxiety and pleasure, but if this continuous act is mistaken for a natural or linguistic given, power is relinquished to expand the cultural field bodily through subversive performances of various kinds."


page 148
in arguement, some might say that if the subject has no perception of their performance, how can it be performing. how important 'the idea of the public display of technical skill is to this traditional concept of 'performance'
'these arts require the physical presence of a trained or skilled human beings whose demonstration of their skills is the performance."

'restored behaviour ' actions consciously seperated from the person doing them
Schechners useful concept of 'restored behaviour' points to a quality of performance not involved with the display of skills, but rather with a certain distance between 'self' and behaviour, analagous to that between an actor and the role the actor plays on stage."


the performance studies reader

page 27 'audiences..whom regard the experience as made up of material to be interpreted, to be reflected upon, to be engaged in'.

page 59
"performance may also be understood mroe generally as any activity that involves the presentation of rehearsed or pre-established sequences of words or actions. Schechner calls this 'restored behaviour' or 'twice-behaved behaviour'

page 61
'when an individual plays a part he implicitly requests his observers to take seriously the impression that is fostered before them. they are asked to believe that the character they see actually possesses the attributes he appears to possess"

"one finds the performer can be fully taken in by his own act; he can be sincerely convinced that the impression of reality which he stages is the real reality"
'when his audience is also convinced in this way about the show he puts on then, for the moment at least, only the sociologist or the socially disgruntled will have any doubts about the 'realness' of what is presented."
So we believe that when we put on these new styles, that's our new self.

page 62
"we know that in service occupations practitioners who may otherwise be sincere are sometimes forced to delude their customers because their customers show such a heartfelt demand for it. Doctors who are led into giving placebos, filling station attendants who resignedly check and recheck tire pressures for anxious women motorists, shoe clerks who sell a shoe that fits but tell the customers it is the size she wants to hear - therse are cynical performers whose audiences will not allow them to be sincere. " Which is similar to the expectations accustomed to women in certain walks of life. 

"starting with a lack of inward belief in ones role, the individual may follow the natural movements described by park:

it is probably no mere historical accident that the word person in its first meaning, is a mask. it is rather a recognition of the fact that everyone is always and everywhere, more or less consiously, playing a role... it is in these roles that we know each other; it is in the roles that we know ourselves

in a sense, and in so far as this mask represents the conception we have formed of ourselves - the role we are striving to live up to - this mask is our truer self, the self we would like to be. in the end, our conception of our role becomes second nature and an integral part of our personality. We come into the world as individuals, achieve character, and become persons" but fashion is trying to dissuade this by encouraging us all to follow a certain path.REFER BACK TO THIS PAGE FOR STORIES

page76
"art imitates life"
"life has become art"

page190
"the body becomes its gender through a series of acts which are renewed, revised, and consolidated through time"

page 194
"the sight of a tranvestite on stage can compel pleasure and applause while the sight of the same tranvestite on the seat next to us on the bus can compel fear, rage, even violence... on the street or in the bus, there is no presumption that the act is distinct from a reality; the disquieting effect of the act is that there are no conventions that demarcate the imaginary form the real"

"... appearance contradicts reality of a gender"
"gender realilty is performative, which means, quite simply, that it is real only to the extent that it is performed"gender is dramatised by certain poses, posture and gestures. then link this to the russian 'work suits' and clothes to fit everyone.. but still labelled out different genders

page 197
"there is...nothing about femaleness that is waiting to be expressed; there is, on the other hand, a good deal about the diverse experiences of women that is being expressed and still needs to be expressed"

"gender is not passively scripted on the body, and neither is it determined by nature, language, the symbolic, or the overwhelming history of patriarchy"




PERFORMANCE :LIVE ART SINCE THE 60s

Everyday appearance is combining paints, sculpting, costume

PAGE 10
"according to photographer Richard Avedon who insists the 'all portraiture is performance," even Rembrandt, "must have been acting when he made his own self-portraits....Not just making faces, but always, throughout his life, working in the full tradition of performance"

[TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCES]"Several factors explain this surge of interest (in performance). One is the interactivity of modern life in the last years of the twentieth century, which provides endless opportunities for participation... cyberspace offers the illusion of constant movement"

It's not just clothing advancements, technological advances have meant this surge of pretense within the public. We put on personas to video, photograph and .  We fear being captured in the same outfit twice 

PAGE16
"everyday life was not only material for art, but was itself art"

PAGE21
"during the 1970s when conceptual art made it difficult for viewers to respond to its somewhat didactic content and its anti-consumerist ideology, performance art become the predominant art form of the period. The range of material grew enormously, to include body art, living sculpture, autobiography, feminism, ritual, costume art, and more" at the same time people were becomming more adventurous with their clothing. the hippy culture of the 70s blah blah. People were addressing issues through their own clothing. By punk, tshirts with slogans etc

PAGE26
In the mid 70s androyny was explored by david bowie, lou reed, roxy music etc and by "in the late 70s.. artists in the united states... men often dressed in standard-issue black jeans and white shirts, sometimes with skinny black ties, and women in gender-neutral pants, boots and sweaters." but now, androgeny isn't used to show gender equality, [QUOTE FASHION BRANDS TAKE ON ANDROGYNY]
Androgyny was used to blur the lines between male and female, empowering 
"In being androgynous, especially in a sex-stereotyped society, a person would need to be open to experience, flexible, accepting of apparent opposites, unconcerned about social norms, and self-reliant"

PAGE27
"in the 1990s, a new generation of artists, among them catherine opie, yasumasa morimura, and lyle ashton harris, explored this fascination with disguise in a range of costumes and personae. Their selfconscious and art-directed performance in front of the camera resulted in life-size, glossy photographs whose super-realism emulated the thrill of live performance."

PAGE30
"Historically, performance art has been a medium that challenges and violates borders between disciplines and genders, between private and public, and between everyday life and art, and that follows no rules."

"new technologies have created an avant-garde for the masses, a popular world of computers, websites, zines and virtual realisties, subscribed to by global youth who navigate its brilliant pathways with the exhilaration and energy of first-time explorers"

PAGE33
"More people 'see' performance through reproduction than can ever actually attend them... readers may view the image of a one-time only performancy as frequently as they like, resuscitating the live performance repeatedly in their imagination"


MARINA ABROMAVIC

"To be a performance artist, you have to hate theatre," she replied. "Theatre is fake… The knife is not real, the blood is not real, and the emotions are not real. Performance is just the opposite: the knife is real, the blood is real, and the emotions are real."

 Why put yourself though such suffering in the name of art? Abramovic has no easy answers to that question. "I am obsessive always, even as a child," she says, suddenly serious, and, for the first time, pausing for thought. "On one side is this strict orthodox religion, on the other is communism, and I am this little girl pulled between the two. It makes me who I am. It turns me into the kind of person that Freud would have a field day with, for sure." She hoots with laughter again and reaches for the English tea.

 I realise the power of art that does not hang on the walls of galleries."

Abramovic is adamant, though, that, as she puts it: "Performance art has to live and survive. It cannot be put on walls. If we do not perform and recreate it, the art fuckers and the theatre fuckers and the dance fuckers will rip us off without credit even more than they do anyway. I am sick and tired of the mistreatment of performance art. Even the pop-video fuckers steal from it. I want to bring young people in afresh so they can experience the beautiful work of Beuys and Acconci. The best way to do that is to bring those works alive, to perform them."
Relates to bart hess but his isn't performance

http://www.contempaesthetics.org/newvolume/pages/article.php?articleID=633

Friday 23 August 2013

Fashion history notes

Clothing is a powerful tool and should not be underestimated.
But need to hone it down... am i focusing on the history ? or the craft side of things - women coming together to craft and create makes them infinately stronger? Performance and how it's key to coming to an identity, or supposed identity? the development of technology and its influence on  

Because of the lack of clothes choice people became experiemental with their clothing - popping collars or altering

AGAINST FASHION
page 2
"fashion did not exist before the second half of the fourteenth century."

"described by Lipovetsky as "more than a fashion, it is a metaphor for the advent of modern, buraucratic societies"

"Thorstein Veblen's classical assumption of "dress as an expression of pecuniary culture" which it is, but not solely so. give example of how women changed the rules and dress, BUT IT IS NOW

page3
"For Baudelaire, the essential question is where "fashion should be considered a symptom of the taste for an idea lingering on in the human brain above all that is crude, mundane, and vile brought by the natural life, as a sublime deformation of nature"

"The historical avantgardes would appropriate dress design as aprivelged field in which the artist could over step the limits of "pure" art and act directly on daily life."

page4
"for Louis Magron, "the true Romantic, the abracadabrant individual, does not make any concession. He does not acquiensce to an acccepted fashion, he creates his own. Instead of resembling everyone else, he aspires to be just himself".... 
"Too important to be left to the clothing trade, dress should become an artistic concern" Use this in arguement against fashion. Gautiers text De La Mode.

page5
"Clothing, Morris argued, should be designed on the basis of an intimate relationship with the human body rather than being dictated by fashions whims" when talking about alterations
page6
e.w.goodwin.. no clothing, the most elegant or suiting of dress/coat is powerful enough to stay "the restless hand of fickle fashion"
page7
edward william godwin, one of the great figures of 19th century architecture - "Godwin considered dress design to be as important as his architectural practise ... "To construct and decorate a covering for the human body that shall be beautiful and healthy is as important as to build a shelter for it when so covered that shall be beautiful and healthy"

In the late 1800's, 'artificial, fashionable body construction, such as the corset and the crinoline, were rejected in favor of a type of clothing that was more respectful of the "natural" body.

page 8
"ONE SHOULD EITHER BE A WORK OF ART, OR WEAR A WORK OF ART" wilde

But it was still the artists making for their wives. The women had no self-expression just performed as a mannequin for their husbands.

page13
William Morris "nothing... will enter our home except what I have conceived and designed myself" dress yourself without following others or designers. by utterly what feels good and is timeless
which is utterly relavent in todays times. People should imagine their own clothing rather than have fashion enforced upon them. Yellow should be worn by a happy-go-lucky woman in cheer, rather than by those who are told yellow is the new black.

Just when a breakthrough was being made with dress, it was turned into an accessory, with Van de Velde dressing his wife as to "match the color of her dresses with that of the vegetable puree served at the table"

page14
"Fashion is flighty, unfaithful, coquettish, and naturally delusive." It is morally to blame, as it is primarily motivated by profit. However, it is also to blame from an aesthetic point of view. Its renewal is only apparent, affecting mere trifles, aspects of minor importance, through changes of silly details such as the width of skirts, the number of flounces, or the pleating. Since fashion is essentially immoral, being greedy, and rediculous, because of its superficiality, it cannot be radically changed."

page 53
around the 1930s , Fedorov-Davydov "such attire (universal dress) was even more important in a socialist society, where common specialized dress not only functioned as a protective garment but also had an organizational character that could reinforce the feeling of belonging to a community" like in schools, where uniform is the norm, the similarities in appearance encourage people to find other ways to express themselves. There are some groups existing that still chose to simulate dress outside of work and education. The scouts, the patchworks (quotes from that)

"PROZODEZHDA is distingueshed by its primary anti-aestheticism. The deicisive element in its design was not the aesthetic dimension but its social impact.
SPETSODESHDA a specialised garment with a specific productive function"

PAGE54
1930s
Adolf Hitler Mein Kampf "The young man eho in summer walks about in a long pipe-like grouses, covered up to the neck, loses, merely through his clothing a stimulant for his physical fitness" This caused him to introduce sports clothing to encourage activity and fitness. Clothes that were "Easy to wear, cut simply and without buttons, which limit freedom of movement". So clothing affects us physically as well as mentally. Clothing itself is a prompt for performance. A corset prohibits lung capacity therefore prohibiting any excessive movement or excersise. In modern days an example is a crop top. By exposing the midriff it encourages the wearer to not overeat, or slump in fear of rolls or bloating. A large baggy t-shirt over a pair of leggings screams activity and movement. The flexibility of the material allows muscle flexing without constriction.

page56
fashion "levels people without taking into account the characteristics and shortcomings of their bodies"
lamanova,
 'concerning contemporary dress", page 174 
.This is why altering, self making and personalisation, at peak in the ----'s was so key and important to individuals.

Dress reform concept of EIGENKLEID or personalised dress

ELIZABETHER CADY STANTON the new dress (the lily 4 )april 1852)
"why should i, a short woman, with a short plump arm, destroy the proportions of my figure by wearing a great flowing sleeve, and a bag of an undersleeve, because some tall thing woman, with an endless arm must resort to some such conceit, to break up the monotony of its length?"
"it is not the woman,but the drapery that strikes you as more graceful" when speaking of long dress and bodice "Are not the free easy motions of the woman herself, more beautiful than the flowing of her drapery?

page 178
the cut of modern clothes should suit the requirements of our life, taking into account all possibilities.


FASHION AS COMMUNICATION

PAGE167
Efrat Tseelon "the bodys covering can conceal and reveal identity and create a space from where one can play out desires and fears" TICK

"when fashion and clothing are considered as masquerade, one performs ones gender and social identities, for example, rather than fashion referring to or reflecting some original and authentic identity"

PAGE 168
"questions such as 'is it art?', 'is it design?', and is it 'fashion?' seem equaly impor=ssible to answer with a simple 'yes' or 'no' such is the way one shades into the other."

PAGE 2
"id magazine, points out that, for some people, 'to be fashion conscious' or 'fashionable' is still deemed to make you 'fickle', 'dumb', 'ephemeral' [and] 'fascist'" (i-D magazine 1985/6). The ways in which clothing, fashion and textiles festure in everyday colloquialisms reflect this view, a much less welcoming and trusting view. In many everyday figures of speech, fashion, clothing and textiles are associated with triviality and deciet".  (such as 'mutton dressed as lamb' or 'fashion victim")

PAGE3
fashion victim "the implication is that they will follow the fashion unquestioningly when, in reality, there are other, much more important things to be attended to" link to loss of identity through fashion, how people lose their morals to follow fashion - nike child labour etc

"It is a common prejudice that fashion and textiles students will be only too happy to shorten a pair of trousers or run off a scarf, for example, because that is what they do, that is what their subjects are about. The idea that fashion and textiles are not perhaps as serious or as important as other subjects is often not one that junior education ministers of government do much to combat... Timothy Eggar, for examples, who was Minister of State for Education and Science in October 1990, suggested on Radio Four's today programme that 'able children' should study proper subjects like Classics or a second language in the National Curriculum, while 'less able children' should study design (Clough 1990: 3)"
links to....
PAGE 4
"From one side, fashion and clothing represent objects that are desirable and sexy and practices that are both glamourous and respectable. From the other side, they represent deceitful, exploitative trivia to be pursued only by the intellectually challenged."

PAGE69
"while members of lower class generally dress up to go out, members of higher social classes generally dress down. Members of lower classes will want to look smarter than they do while maybe working manually during the day. Members of higher classes however, will want to wear something less formal than the relatively smart clothing they have been wearing all day" Clothes are used as a pro-concieved part of performance and personality re-allignment. Those following orders all day will use an outgoing outfit to gain attention and fill the role of the fun lover and...
Those barking orders to others, probably in a suit, will dress casually as if to reistate to themselves, and those around them that they are approachable, friendly.

PAGE25
"wilson suggested that 'fashion is the degraded or unacceptable face of art' (wilson 1990: 209); again, this is the idea that fashion and feshion design seem to dpresent two faces, one acceptable and one not. The best thing that fashion design could do to improve its status would be to call itself an applied art, perhaps, which would at least have the neveft of getting the word 'art' into the designation. The problem, however, is that many people, including fashion designers, consider fashion design to be an art and in no need of a change of name. Angela McRobbie notes, for example , that 'the designers i interviewed all percieved themselves as artsts' (1998: 6)
So why cant others see clothing design as the powerful tool that it is, its enpowered women, etc etc, just as fine art paintings have

PAGE 27
'the difference between appearing quaint and appearing rediculous is thirty years" Laver

PAGE29
"fashion and clothing are forms of nonverbal communication in that they do not use spoken or written words"

PAGE31
"everyday experience, in which clothes are selected according to what one will be doing that day, what mood one is in, whom one expects to meet and so on, appears to confirm the view that fashions and clothing are used to send messages about oneself to others. There are various problems with this model, however. There is the question as to who is the sender of the message. Common sense might suggest that it is the wearer of the garment, but the designer might also be said to have a claim, in that it was their intentions that informed the production of the garment in the first place" So by wearing clothes designed for intent by someone else, we are masking our true selves, and although we initially chose which garment out of thousands to buy, and then wear out of many,  we're still technically being puppetted by the designers to feel a certain way .

"It does not seem to be the case that anyone ever thinks that someone else is wearing something meaningless, Nor does one look at someones clothes and thing, 'i wonder what they mean by that?'. But when we get dressed in the morning, we put on a persona with the clothing.

PAGE32
"IT is not the case that an individual is first a skinhead and then wears all the gear, but that the gear constitutes the individual as a skinhead. It is the social interacting, by means of the clothing, that produces the individual as a member of the group rather than vice-versa, that one is member of the group and then interacts socially" Thus proving that the addition of clothing to a body induces a type of behaviour or confidence that then leads to different outcomes. THIS RELATES TO KNITTING GROUPS ETC


ETHICS IN FASHION

page 81
'simmel stated, "the more an article becomes subject to rapid changes of fashion, the greater the demand for cheap products of its kind, not only because the larger and therefore poorer classes nevertheless have enough purchasing power to regulate industry and demand objects... [and] even the higher circles of society could not afford to adopt the rapid changes in fashion forced upon them by the imitation of the lower circles if the objects were not relatively cheap" [p.81 Ethics]

page80
'the industrial revolution permitted the spread of fashion diffusion by enabling a greater number of people to afford the fashions that could finally be mass-produced'

'people are willing to forgo other, less visible, needs and comforts in order to support a certain amount of wasteful consumption, such as purchasing fashion items' [p.80 Ethics]



FASHION OUT OF ORDER

page 20
'The history of female fashions could be condensed into the history of the corset. Corsets shape bodies according to the ideals of beauty and fashion of the day. Corsets are restrictive. They enforce an erect posture and prevent stooping. corsets signify gentility and demonstrate leisure. corsets are surrogates for real bodies, they veil and tempt revealment.





ALISON LURIE - the language of clothes

"clothes are inevitable. they are nothing less than the furniture of the mind made visible" james laver, style in costume
this didnt used to be true, women we dressed by their husbands etc link to history. then link this to the freedom of clothes that women have fought for. then say how can clothes be used for a better purpose now     


"for thousands of years human beings have communicated with one another first in the language of dress... by the time we meet and converse we have already spoken to each other in an older and more universal tongue" page 3

"within every language of clothes there are many different dialects and accents, some

THE FACE OF FASHION

p.44
devotion to fashion in dress was adduced as a natural weakness of women, something they could not help. this view was strengthened in the nineteenth century, when masculine and feminine clothing became so much more different in fabric, trim and construction. elegant mens clothing during this time was actually no less complex, demanding, and uncomfortable, but it tended to be more subdued and abstract in the way it looked. womens clothing was extremely expressive, almost literary, and very deliberately decorative and noticeable. [Hollander 1980, p.44-45 Face of Fashion]

p.55
the revival of crafts and homemaking in the 1980s is not  a nostalgic hankering for simpler pasts, but sublime 'surrogacy for practices that might construct another self; another place for women'

'constitutes practical com


Tuesday 13 August 2013

KEY RESEARCH - EXHIBITIONS//GALLERIES//MUSEUMS



I plan a trip to Manchester in the next few weeks because Leeds is lacking on the textile front in the coming months.

Places of interest are a Textiles mill (http://www.mosi.org.uk/explore-mosi/explore-galleries/textiles-gallery.aspx) in which I can learn more about the processes behind clothing, and how I can adapt these and use them in my own work.
Also the Manchester gallery of costume (http://www.creativetourist.com/articles/art/manchester/preview-christian-dior-designer-in-focus-at-the-gallery-of-costume/)

LEEDS GALLERY

Bernard Meadows - Cast of Fruit and Vegetables - Thinking about making clothing or a throw/rug/ something usually textile, from an usually solid material. Then making it look as if its textile.


Picture in the lobby - Inspired me to think about carving and sculpture within the realm of textile. Possibly creating a huge thick multi-layered item of clothing to put on a mannequin then remove layers artistically.



SALTS MILL

Article about the current exhibition 'Cloth and Memory' at Salt Mill near Leeds